Chef-owner Olga Cabrera Oropeza hails from the provincial town of Huajuapan de Leon in Mixteca, the rugged northwestern region shared by Oaxaca and the states of Puebla and Guerrero. She grew up with the sweet smell of pulque-leavened breads made by her mom, a renowned local baker, and helped her abuela run a rustic comedor (lunchtime restaurant) famous for pipianes (moles thickened with pumpkin seeds) and chileajos, the Mixtecan stews powered with fruity-hot slender chiles costeños. After moving to Oaxaca City two decades ago, Cabrera opened her own modest comedor…
