The pair of earthenware comal griddles fueled by smoldering oak coals at Tacos del Carmen are beautiful things, weathered by use and white from curing with lime powder. They impart a unique earthy smokiness to this street stand’s quesadillas, empanadas, and tacos. That primeval flavor of clay might be one reason why even in this city of endless street stands this one is always surrounded by crowds—including some of Oaxaca’s top chefs waiting their turn. Open from 7 a.m. until early afternoon, this legendary taco stop is run like a…
