Although La Teca has been around for over three decades, it still feels like a secretive discovery. Take a taxi to a busy street in Oaxaca’s residential Reforma neighborhood far from mezcal-swigging tourists, then admire the quaint family vibe of La Teca’s front room hung with artworks by Oaxacan luminaries including the late artist-activist-legend, Francisco Toledo. As you settle down in the overgrown tropical patio worthy of a magical realist novel, chef-owner Deyanira Aquino appears—in her eighties, regal of bearing, and glamorous in her bright lipstick and traje de tehuano,…
