Beans are the unsung heroes of Oaxacan cuisine, grown together with different squashes and corn on a milpa, the traditional intercropped plot. Stewed with avocado leaves or epazote and served over rice, filling tamales or tortas or topping tlayudas, they are indispensable but rarely celebrated all on their own. Amicar Hernandez and Paulina Rovilla opened this legume-centric spot near Museo Rufino Tamayo to give frijoles their much-deserved share of the spotlight. Their other mission? To bring back affordable family meals in this city where tourism is driving up restaurant prices. …
