Even if you’ve been to Barcelona’s portside La Barceloneta neighborhood, you probably didn’t notice this spot. But that’s not your fault; La Cova Fumada, one of the city’s most iconic bodegas, has no sign. Inside, there’s little more to indicate that this is a restaurant—at least not in the contemporary sense: the walls are decorated with a few pages torn out of a soccer magazine. There’s an ancient menu posted on the wall and a few wine barrels off to the side. Little seems to have changed here since opening…
