In the old days, a bowl of Cheerios wouldn’t have cut it. If you were a laborer in Barcelona in the early 20th century, you would likely have begun the day with an esmorzar de forquilla, or “fork breakfast.” The term refers to hearty, heavy, meaty breakfasts typically paired with wine. Many of the places in Barcelona that used to serve esmorzar de forquilla have closed, but a few cling to the legacy. Every morning, from 9 a.m. to noon, Cal Boter, in the working-class Gràcia neighborhood, opens its doors…
