In June 2020, when many Americans were coping with the COVID-19 pandemic by stress-baking sourdough, Bryan Ford challenged them to think differently about it. In his book New World Sourdough, the Bronx-born, New Orleans-raised baker with Afro-Honduran roots asked readers to go beyond the boules, baguettes, and other European iterations of naturally leavened bread. His second cookbook, Pan y Dulce, which comes out today, is an exhaustive, focused dive into the history of baking throughout Latin America. That means untangling the colonial legacy of wheat and other grains, as well…
