On the Las Vegas Strip, giant LED signs allow you to count Gordon Ramsey’s pores as he advertises his Hell’s Kitchen restaurant at Caesars Palace. Celebrity chef–run restaurants and chains abound along the city’s main drag, but for a culinary adventure, you’ll have to step off the Strip entirely. Las Vegas has a flourishing Chinatown, tremendous tiki bars, and beloved historical restaurants. Wondrous food and drink await the intrepid visitor willing to swap the Strip for strip malls and casinos for Charleston Boulevard. Sweet and Savory In a blindingly bright…