Savory pies, or pita, have been part of the Greek diet since the days of Plato and Aristotle. The ancients liked to start their day with a tart enveloped in a sturdy crust made with wine. Over the generations, Greece’s pies evolved into their flaky, present-day incarnation. While mass-produced spanakopita abounds both in Greece and abroad, Athenians are blessed with access to bakers who still hand-roll out their dough daily. None do so better than Ariston—its name translates as “the best,” after all. Back when the old Parliament building was…
