Located on a strip of rather touristy-feeling restaurants, Kafeneio Oraia Ellas (“Cafe Beautiful Greece”) is one of Athens’s oldest kafenion, traditional coffee shops. Dating back to 1839, it was a former gathering place for Athens intelligentsia, as well as visiting literati. Hans Christian Andersen drank here not long after it opened. During WWII, the space took a darker turn as the site of a Gestapo HQ. The cafe’s history is apparent today in the old ads and posters that coat the walls, and its glass cases stuffed with quirky, ancient…
