One Woman's Quest to Create Truly Japanese Cheese

Chiyo Shibata stands in a small concert venue, her signature white towel tied around her head. Behind her is a group of taiko drummers and in front of her is a small table with a burner, milk, and salt. As the drumming begins, she takes a deep breath and begins to make cheese. This is not her usual workshop. “One of my goals is to introduce Japan through cheese,” Shibata says, as we settle at the counter of the 120-year-old building that is Fromage Sen, her cheesery. Only 90 minutes…

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