THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE MARCH 26, 2022, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE. You are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,The waves rise, the waves fall.Ninkasi, you are the one who soaks the malt in a jar,The waves rise, the waves fall. This stanza, written down on a piece of clay in 1800 BC, is part of a curious hymn: part song, part recipe. Ninkasi was the Sumerian goddess of beer, and this song is also the first recorded…