On a mild afternoon in early September, I walked with a group along the shores of Lake Laugarvatn, Iceland, in search of a local delicacy. As our guide led us past bubbling hot springs, the air smelled of sulfur and the black sand gurgled beneath our feet. We stopped before a large mound of sand. With shovel in hand, our guide started digging, slowly unearthing the stainless-steel pot that had been buried among the black sand and boiling water. After opening the lid and tearing away layers of plastic wrap,…
