Virgilio Martínez knows Peruvian food very, very well. After all, he’s the award-winning chef at Central, a famed Lima restaurant that serves food from the widely varying microclimates across Peru. The result, he says, is cuisine inspired by “different territories, from the sea, to the coast, to the desert, to the Andes, to the vast Amazonia.” His tasting menus feature, among other offerings, artfully plated piranha, dishes containing four different kinds of ancestral corn, and cushuro, a water-dwelling, pearly cyanobacteria for dessert. Central is an ambitious project. Then Martínez took…
