This article is adapted from the November 13, 2021, edition of Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Things newsletter. You can sign up here. Picking fruit at the University of California, Riverside, is a singular experience. In the Citrus Variety Collection’s orchard, researchers walk among trees bearing oranges, lemons, and limes of all shapes and sizes, from spindly to oblong, bumpy to smooth, huge to tiny. There are more than 1,000 kinds of citrus, two trees of each: a Noah’s Ark of citrus. Riverside’s Citrus Variety Collection is one of the world’s many…