“In August, this area is packed with people visiting their ancestors’ graves,” notes our taxi driver as we pass through the temple district in Hirosaki on the way to the castle grounds. There are more than 50 temples between the adjacent neighborhoods of Shinteramachi and Zenringai, where 33 Zen temples dating from the 1600s stand shoulder to shoulder. It’s also a city full of specters, at least according to a popular local souvenir, “Tsugaru Haunted Coffee,” which draws on supernatural legends from Japanese mythology. Each packet depicts a ghost or…
