“Will it be hard to find, do you reckon?” asks my friend Ben Coakley as he drives us through the rolling hills of southern Wales. The answer, we soon discover, is no. Half an hour north of Cardiff, we catch sight of our destination with ease: an imposing concrete structure that dominates a central location in the village of Nelson. More than 150 years old, it’s the last sports venue of its kind. Flanked by The Royal Oak pub on one side and a small parking lot on the other,…