Tracking Jaguars is all about detective work,” says ecologist Gerardo Ceballos as we trek through the dense forest of Mexico’s Calakmul Biosphere, a protected natural reserve of about 2,700 square miles in the heart of the Yucatán Peninsula. We are followed by biologist Heliot Zarza Villanueva, a jaguar hunter turned conservationist known as Don Pancho, veterinarian Susana Llescas Furter, bloodhound trainer Eliu Campos Hernandez, and one of his trainees, Monica. The puppy, like me, is on her first outing in search of jaguars. Suddenly, Monica stops. A distant roar echoes…
