In the countryside between the small towns of Stimigliano and Torri in Sabina in northern Lazio, there is an inconspicuous Romanesque church that played a crucial role in the history of the region built over the remains of an old Roman town. The church, officially known as Santa Maria della Lode in Vescovio, dates back to the eighth century. But due to the ravages of the Saracen attacks and later reconstructions, its present style is clearly Romanesque, as demonstrated by stunning frescoes that demonstrate the influence of the 14th century…