As with any artist, a great tofu maker relies on his instincts. And for Lin Yih-Cheng, those instincts kick in when the soy milk begins to curdle in the hot wok. He prods the half-liquid, half-solid mush gently with the tip of his spoon, and adds a bit more coagulant—a solution that looks just like water. “My experience tells me I can add a bit more,” he says as he works. Lin is the owner of the Luoshan Organic Tofu Farm on the eastern coast of Taiwan, where he gives…
