It was a sweltering summer afternoon when photographer Taha Ahmad first walked into Feroz Shah Kotla, a sprawling 14th century citadel in New Delhi. At the gate, the guard warned him to take care of his camera. Cheels, birds of prey also known as black kites, circled above his head, trying to catch pieces of meat thrown skyward by a man. Ahmad wore a black t-shirt and dark blue trousers, colors that he hoped would help him blend in with the crowds. He joined a throng of men, women, and…