At first, Clarinda Ramos didn’t think it would be a good idea to open Biatüwi, the restaurant she now runs with her husband. Since she left her village on the banks of the Andirá River to study and work in Manaus, a city that serves as the main gateway to Brazilian Amazon, she has learned not to talk about the foods she ate as a child: the spicy ants she crumbled over fish stews, or guaraná juice, which she helped her mother obtain by grating the small red berries against…
