Kang Kyung-ja opens the door of her home on the island province of Jeju, South Korea, with a smile on her face. After offering me a cup of barley tea, she unfolds a piece of paper to sing me a song she’s written. Ieodo sana, ieodo sana, ieodo sanaWhere to go, where to rowAll aboard to the depths of the seaWhere my mother gave birth to me Did she know to dive would be my destiny? Her husband, in the next room practicing calligraphy, joins along for the parts she…