The Gion district of Kyoto is a famed hanamachi—”flower town”—where numerous geisha establishments stand next to one another. Traditionally, the geishas of Kyoto entertain guests through dancing and conversation (or flirtation) at high-end restaurants called o-chaya, or “teahouses.” The most notable in the district may be the Ichiriki, an exclusive, invitation-only club. Established in the late 17th century, the Ichiriki has been run by the Sugiura family since the beginning of the Gion district—14 generations so far. It quickly became a place frequented by men of status and power. Notoriously, the teahouse…
