Exiting Marrakesh (Marrakech), the view seems to empty out like sand in an hourglass and becomes all sky. The highway to the south runs along a line of futuristic-looking lights and eventually arrives at the Jarjeer Mule And Donkey Refuge. Terracotta cubist buildings mirror the minimalist logo of Jarjeer. The refuge is comprised of a home, stables, and corrals, as well as courtyards and fountains set in landscaping crisscrossed by footpaths, bees, and butterflies. The refuge is the creation of Susan Machin and Charles Hantom, who were both lawyers in…