Chef Marc Lepine describes Atelier Restaurant in Ottawa, Canada, as a high-end minimalist nook specializing in molecular gastronomy. Since 2008, the restaurant has thrived on Lepine’s signature 12-course blind tasting menu. Pre-pandemic, the grey exterior of the narrow, brick building that houses Atelier provided no hint of the colorful bite plates served inside. Fantastical dishes reminiscent of snow globes, flower arrangements, garlands, and fashion accessories arrived one after the other, each equal parts abstract art and food. When COVID-19 restrictions forced Atelier to close in March, Lepine had to find…
