Travel

Leftovers are always better the next day. Or, in the case of Bangkok restaurant Wattana Panich, the next generation. The giant pot of neua tune, a beef stew popular in the Thai capital, has been simmering since owner Nattapong Kaweenuntawong was a child, more than 45 years ago. Growing up studying the exact flavor profile of the stew from his father, Kaweenuntawong now balances the flavor himself daily. He employs an ancient practice called Hunter’s Stew or Perpetual Stew, using...

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African-American slaves prepared food from the meat scraps of their owner’s butchered livestock. One such piece of offal was chitlins, or pig intestines. But chitlins came to represent more than sustenance. During the era of Jim Crow laws, they were a code. African-American performers knew that venues serving hog intestines were safe. This collection of restaurants and music venues became known as the “Chitlin Circuit.” Why were chitlins designated “slave food”? Since one’s social status dictated which part of...

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Good luck offerings abound around the New Year, but few are as distinctly Southern as Hoppin’ John. In the United States, Hoppin’ John—a savory combination of rice, beans, and pork—has been ladled into Low Country dishes for centuries, becoming one of the country’s most iconic New Year’s Day suppers. And while mysteries persist concerning the origins of the catchy name, a few things are clear about its preparation and flavor. According to most food historians, enslaved people in the...

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When clocks strike midnight on New Year’s Eve in Spain and parts of Latin America, many revelers are too busy to pop champagne, set off fireworks, or kiss their spouse. Instead, they’re stuffing 12 green grapes in their mouths—an attempt to ward off bad luck in the new year. A common story traces the tradition of the twelve lucky grapes, or uvas de la suerte, to grape farmers in Alicante, Spain, who cannily suggested the idea when they had a...

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