THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE APRIL 24, 2022, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE. Earlier this month, I found myself driving through the winding hills of São Miguel, a small island in the Portuguese Azores. When I reached my destination, I was hit with the smell of sulfur and the warmth of steam. They were coming from fumaroles, holes in the ground that hissed with the same volcanic activity that once created this island.That day, those bubbling natural cauldrons were cooking my lunch.Amid…