The Powerful Symbolism of Ukraine's Easter Bread

THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE APRIL 16, 2022, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE. It’s hard to imagine celebrating Easter, a holiday of spring and rebirth, in the middle of a war. But in Ukraine, bakers are still making their Easter breads with pride and defiance. Here’s just one example. Zavertailo, a sourdough bakery near St. Michael’s Cathedral in Kyiv, is still baking paska for residents, in both classic fruit-studded and chocolate flavors. They’re also fundraising to bake massive quantities of this sweet…

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