The cempasúchil, flame-colored marigolds that the Aztecs once used to honor a goddess of death, are inescapable in Mexico City each October. Millions of the blossoms make their way into garlands in preparation for Día de los Muertos. On November 1, most of these fragrant flowers will wind up on the graves of loved ones. But each year, a few are set aside for a very different purpose: ice cream. “It tastes almost like you mixed chamomile with vanilla,” says José Luis Cervantes, the owner of Joe Gelato. Each year, he dries…
