A small, open-air concrete building sits beside a palm tree at the east edge of Dharavandhoo’s pocket-sized harbor. A sign announces it as the island’s fish market, but it’s nothing like the bustling trade halls of Tokyo’s Toyosu or Seattle’s touristy Pike Place. Here, no money changes hands, and the diverse customers take whatever they’re offered, no haggling necessary. “Reef sharks, stingrays, sometimes nurse sharks up to three meters long,” says Ahmed Mahzoom, listing the fish that gather in the water at the harbor wall’s base. Ryshyn works at one…
