No matter where you’re coming from, it takes a long time to get to Conche. Drive up the Viking Trail, a windswept coastal highway, turn right at a random corner on the edge of a ragged forest, and make your way across the entire breadth of Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula. Continue to the end of the road, looping down toward this tiny fishing village—population, 170—that feels like it’s sitting right at the edge of the world. There, among the multicolored homes and longline boats bobbing at the docks, you’ll find…
