This article is adapted from the November 20, 2021, edition of Gastro Obscura’s Favorite Things newsletter. You can sign up here. As a food-obsessed child, I always elbowed my way into the kitchen before Thanksgiving to “help.” The frazzled adults often set me to folding napkins or rinsing glasses. What I really wanted was to help make my uncle Gary’s top-secret sausage stuffing, or assist my aunt Sharon in the laborious, all-morning task of baking the family specialty known as Wonga’s Potatoes. The main ingredient: many, many hand-grated boiled potatoes,…
