This recipe is adapted from a special edition of the June 12, 2021 Gastro Obscura newsletter. On a summer day in 1951, thousands of chicken aficionados filled a stadium in Arkansas to watch a bird be crowned “the Chicken of Tomorrow.” This was no beauty contest. Backed by the Department of Agriculture, the competition had one goal: to find a chicken so ample, so blessed with meaty breasts and thighs, that poultry, which was still associated with wealth and prosperity, would become cheap and affordable for every American. As a…
