If you ask Lynn Ng which flavor of soft cream is her favorite, she’ll probably say scallop. “It’s actually really delicious despite seeming like such an incompatible mix,” she says. Three years ago, Ng and I worked together as assistant language teachers at a technical high school in Hokkaido. This meant we spent weekends on the roads of Hokkaido in her blue Passo. Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost prefecture, an island comprising more than 20 percent of the nation’s landmass but less than five percent of the population. For many, Hokkaido…
