Nestled between the Alps and the city of Verona, the Valpolicella—literally the “valley of many cells” in Latin—has been a renowned winemaking region going back at least to Roman times. In the first century, Pliny the Elder wrote about how people near Verona made wine: “They gather their bunches into stone barns and let them dry until winter, when they make wine from them.” Some places still make it like they used to: Regional wines, such as Amarone, are still made using partially dried grapes, a technique that was common…
