You know how you can sometimes view something you love through such a nostalgic lens that you begin to lose track of whether it still exists or may have tiptoed out of fashion? That’s how Kalu Downey felt about la once, or Chilean tea time. It was 2017, and the Santiago resident wanted to find out if Chileans still gathered around a table each afternoon for their so-called “fourth meal.” Was la once dying off with grandmas, she wondered? Or had it adapted to the elongated workdays and hectic schedules…
