THIS ARTICLE IS ADAPTED FROM THE JUNE 15, 2024, EDITION OF GASTRO OBSCURA’S FAVORITE THINGS NEWSLETTER. YOU CAN SIGN UP HERE. The giant Hot Cheeto was mesmerizing. It looked like some sort of fantastical, fractal coral constellation looming over the platters of Wagyu sliders. Then one of the staff snapped off a tubular limb, stuck it in an aluminum bag, and gave it a vigorous shake. It turned out the bag was full of dehydrated cheese powder. And it tasted close to the real junk-food ideal—almost good enough to justify…
