Central Athens is home to a handful of “chop shops,” restaurants that specialize in grilled meat, in particular lamb chops. Of these, To Steki Tou Ilia (“Ilia’s Haunt”), with its charmingly rustic vibe, barrels of wine and outdoor seating, is seen as the classic example of the genre. The restaurant has a brief menu, which includes starters such a creamy tzatziki and salads and other sides, but the emphasis here is on slender, long, fatty chops—sold by the kilogram—and a subtly sweet, fragrant house wine—sold by the liter. The chops…
