L’église de Saint-Salvayre is a 12th-century church that sits 750 meters above the medieval town of Alet Le Bains in the Aude. Like many places in the region, it plays its part in the Grail legends that radiate from ground zero for conspiracy aficionados, Rennes Le Chateau. Indeed, this rough, minuscule building claims one of the biggest secrets of all. The church and the adjoining hamlet sit at the end of a rutted, narrow road that climbs inexorably from Alet towards the acres of blue sky above. Your reward on…