When it comes to visiting the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), most people picture the Joint Security Area, the blue buildings where South Korean and North Korean soldiers stare each other down with a border between them. That’s not the only place that tourists can visit though. A place that might be even more interesting is the former American military base known as Camp Greaves, which is now an arts and culture complex. From Imjingak in Paju, show your passport, and take a ride on the DMZ Gondola across a river…