A delicacy of northern Vietnam, steamed rice roll, or bánh cuốn (pronounced “banh kwohn”), is one of the most underrated Vietnamese dishes. A testament to the sophistication of even everyday Vietnamese food, the dish is known to be technically challenging, requiring finesse and precision. Restaurants serving the best bánh cuốn tend to specialize in that dish alone. This 30-plus-year-old, Michelin-recognized street food canteen (whose name translates simply to Mrs. Xuan’s Bánh Cuốn) is one of them. Here, watch the expert cooks pour watery rice flour batter onto a hot plate….