Starting in the late 19th century, and following a trend kicked off in Paris, Lisbon went kiosk crazy. At its peak, the city was home to nearly 70 kiosks, many of which served simple drinks—largely sweet herbal liqueurs and beer. Several of these Art Nouveau-era kiosks remain in Lisbon today, but all but one are owned by the city, who has generally leased them to larger brands that serve a bland repertoire of international drinks and snacks. But Quiosque de São Paulo, Lisbon’s only privately-owned kiosk, has gone in a…