Legend has it that in the second century B.C., just after Jewish rebels reclaimed their temple from Greek-Syrian oppressors in Jerusalem, a miniscule amount of olive oil kept the temple’s sacred flame burning for eight days until they could find more fuel. Today, Jews across the world commemorate this miracle on the winter holiday of Hanukkah by heating up oil to fry myriad foods, each reflecting the cook’s heritage, such as Sephardic bumuelos or Ashkenazi latkes. Michael Twitty, a Black-Jewish culinary historian, likes to add dishes such as Louisiana-style beignets…
